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Welcome to My Website
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“On a hot day in Virginia, I know
nothing more comforting than a fine spiced pickle,
brought up trout-like from the sparkling depths
of the aromatic jar below the stairs of Aunt Sally’s
cellar.” – Thomas
Jefferson |
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Calendar:
August:
- I’ll discuss the tradition of southern picnics
on Lynne Rosetto Kasper’s Splendid
Table (Minnesota Public Radio). Check local
listings.
- I’ll be taping North Carolina People with
host William Friday, one of UNC-TV’s longest running
and most popular shows. During our half-hour on-camera,
Bill will teach me how he makes his famous peanut brittle,
a recipe you’ll find in A Love Affair
with Southern Cooking. Check local listings.
September 5 & 7:
- North Carolina Bookwatch:
My half-hour discussion of A Love Affair
with Southern Cooking with host D.G. Martin
will air on UNC-TV. The day before taping, I baked a
Kentucky Bourbon Cake (one of many classic southern cakes
in the book), and set it up on-set as a kind of “show
and tell.” At the end of the taping but still on-camera,
D.G. grabbed a piece, took a bite, and said, “Boy,
this is good!” UNC-TV not only covers all of North
Carolina but also parts of Virginia and South Carolina,
and possibly easternmost Tennessee as well. Check local
listings.
September 26:
- During a week-long southern food symposium to be held
at the historic Biltmore Estate in Asheville, Southern
Living senior writer Donna Florio and I
will discuss the origin, importance, and evolution of
the South’s beloved chess pies and offer fresh-baked
samples to taste. I’ll also be signing books so
here’s a chance to get an autographed copy of A
Love Affair with Southern Cooking . This
symposium is open to the public and among the others
participating are food historians and authors John Egerton,
John T. Edge, Marcie Cohen Ferris, and Ronni Lundy. For
details, click on http://www.biltmore.com.
In Brief:
- A Love
Affair with Southern Cooking has
just won two “best cookbook” awards: first
a James Beard (Americana category), and then
a SIBA (Southern Independent Booksellers Alliance).
Needless to add, I am over the moon.
- The Last Word on the “new” Crisco? Just
received this additional caveat from my good friend,
cookbook author James Villas: “Even when
I switched to all-butter in my pound cakes, I continued
to grease the pan with Crisco only because I had
the can on hand and thought this would be harmless.
Well, as you know, I was getting crusts that fell
apart when I included some Crisco in the batter
but never suspected that wiping the pan with just
a smidgeon could also affect the crust. So the
other night I greased with stick margarine and
the crust came out absolutely perfect. That
new Crisco is scary stuff.”
- Bad Advice? I was startled
to read in a recent piece on chocolate chip cookies
that a good way to develop flavor is to let the
dough (containing two raw eggs) season as long
as 36 hours in the refrigerator. And this in a
newspaper of record. Having spent months in pathogenic
bacteriology labs at Cornell, I can tell you that
I, for one, would never chance it. Being both sweet
and moist, a big blob of cookie dough is a dandy
breeding ground for bacteria that may cause food
poisoning, salmonella to name merely one of them.
Refrigerator temperatures are not low enough to
prevent potentially harmful bacteria from multiplying.
Nor, it seems to me, cookie baking times long enough
or oven temperatures hot enough to destroy them.
My advice? Bake your favorite chocolate chip cookies
without delay.
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Pick up a copy of the July/August issue of Cottage
Living. In it you’ll find my article
on cool soups with four quick and easy recipes guaranteed
to take the sizzle out of summer: Santa Fe Gazpacho
with Toasted Tortilla Strips . . . Frosty
Green Pea Soup . . . Artichoke Vichyssoise .
. . Orange-Tomato Consommé with Lemongrass, Fresh Ginger, and Green Onion Flowers.
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Q & A
Q I have been searching
my recipes for a biscuit called Bride’s
Biscuit. Do you have the recipe? It had
flour, salt, cream cheese and butter plus other stuff.
It was very easy.
-- Rebecca Ryan,
Cyclone, PA
A Yes, Rebecca. But
mine’s
a bit different. No cream cheese. You'll find it
on page 248 of A Love Affair with Southern
Cooking along with a back story detailing
the recipe’s origin. Also called Angel Biscuits,
these are supremely light and fluffy. Small wonder
given the fact that they contain three leavenings: yeast
(no rising time needed), baking powder, and soda. Do
give them a try.
Q What is your favorite
meal to bring to someone following a stay in the
hospital? Do you have a vegetarian option for this
as well? I'd like to spring into action when I receive
such a request, and I wondered if you had any suggestions.
Let's assume that the family enjoys a wide variety
of foods and is willing to reheat the meal. Because
one may be providing food for folks who are healthy
as well as those who are recovering, I find it challenging
to come up with the right menu. – Gina
Mahalek, Chapel Hill, NC
A I usually make a really
good vegetable soup, then tell people how to slip
in leftover chicken, turkey, ham, red meat to
turn it into something more substantial, if they
like. I
also suggest that they might like to drop in
some frozen, shelled and deveined shrimp and let
them cook as the soup reheats.
Vegetable soups are endlessly versatile. And,
of course, they're nutritional bombshells when loaded
with carrots, tomatoes, potatoes (sweet and/or white),
corn, onions, garlic, celery, etc., etc. People always
seem pleased that I've taken time to make a nourishing,
from-scratch soup. And are grateful to learn
the many ways of varying it. For starters,
you might try the Minestrone Milanese on page 133
of The New Doubleday Cookbook,
the Madeira Tomato and Onion Soup on page 99 of my Food
of Portugal, or the Clean-Up-the-Garden
Vegetable Soup on page 66 of A Love Affair
with Southern Cooking. (All three cookbooks
won “cookbook Oscars,” and the Doubleday,
in addition, was named “Tastemaker Cookbook
of the Year.” Forgive me if I brag.)
Gina again: What a great suggestion!
Soup would be perfect. If I add a loaf of crusty
bread and some dessert I'll be all set. Thanks
for solving my dinner delivery dilemma. I'm ready
to start cooking.
Autographed Book Plates:
If you’d like an autographed book
plate for any of my books, just let me know. Please specify
which book and to whom it should be inscribed.
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- Biscuits tough?
- Cakes lopsided?
- Jellies won't gel?
- Gravies lumpy?
If so, contact me and I’ll
attempt to solve your thorniest culinary nightmares.
I love nothing more than playing "recipe doctor" and
have occasionally been "on call" for the Food Network, Gourmet, and
other national magazines.
Click
here to contact Jean
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| Site-Seeing |
Two favorite websites: |
www.ferraracafe.com
Early in my New York career when I lived in
the West Village, weekends were for exploring – always
on foot with my good friend John Snyder
of CBS News, he with his Leica, I with my
Nikon. We usually headed south to Little
Italy, pausing always at Ferrara for espresso
and a sweet. Maybe a freshly made cannoli
(best I’ve
ever eaten) or slice of cheesecake, but
more often hazelnut biscotti, which I dearly
adored. And still do. Fortunately, I can
now buy them online along with a huge variety
of old-fashioned Italian cookies, which
I am told, legendary tenor Enrico Caruso
also relished. Ever since 1892, Ferrara
has been the go-to place for classic Italian
cookies and pastries. Next time you’re
in New York, cab down to 195 Grand Street and
see for yourself. Meanwhile, order a tray
or tin of Ferrara’s
best online. |
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www.monticello.org
I dote upon historic houses and restored villages,
particularly those with culinary “creds.” And
for that reason, Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s
vast country estate only a few miles outside Charlottesville,
Virginia, is an ongoing favorite. Our revered third
president’s
contributions to the American table were significant,
yet few of us know much about them. Jefferson turned
Monticello into a kind of horticultural experiment
station, planting the beans and salsify Lewis and
Clark had brought back from their journey to the
Pacific, importing broccoli from Italy and chilies
from Mexico. In an effort to produce good table wines
at Monticello, Jefferson not only planted vineyards
but also hired skilled European vintners to oversee
them. In vain, alas. There’s an excellent museum
shop at Monticello and much of its inventory is now
available online including these cookbooks sometimes
difficult to find elsewhere: Thomas
Jefferson’s Cook Book, Dining at Monticello, and The
Monticello Cookbook.
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